How to season a carbon steel wok

A new carbon steel wok comes out of the box silver and slippery with factory oil. Seasoning turns it into a black, naturally non-stick pan. In Cantonese and Malaysian kitchens this is called kai wok (开锅), “opening the wok.” You do it once properly, then every meal you cook keeps building it.

What you need

• A carbon steel wok (not nonstick, not cast iron)
• Dish soap and a scrubber, for the first wash only
• A neutral, high-smoke-point oil: peanut, canola or vegetable
• Paper towels and tongs
• A bunch of scallions and a knob of ginger (optional, but traditional)

We put together the woks, spatulas and brushes we’d recommend on Wokky’s Tools.

Step by step

1. Wash off the factory coating. Scrub the wok inside and out with hot, soapy water. This is the only time it ever gets soap.

2. Dry it on the burner. Put it on medium heat until every drop of water is gone. Open a window and turn on the hood. The next steps smoke.

3. Heat it until the metal changes color. Turn the heat to high and tilt the wok so the flame reaches the sides. The steel goes from silver to straw, then blue-grey. Work your way around until the whole cooking surface has changed.

4. Oil it thin. Let it cool slightly, then use tongs and a folded paper towel to wipe on a very thin layer of oil, inside and out. It should look almost dry. Too much oil turns gummy instead of hardening.

5. Heat until it smokes. Back on high heat until the oil smokes and stops. Wipe on another thin layer and repeat. Three or four rounds gives you a good first coat.

6. Stir-fry scallions and ginger. Add a couple of tablespoons of oil and stir-fry chopped scallions and sliced ginger on medium heat for 10 to 15 minutes, pushing them up the sides. It helps season the walls and takes the metallic smell out. Throw them away when you’re done.

How to clean it after cooking

This is the part people get wrong. While the wok is still warm, rinse it with hot water and scrub with a bamboo wok brush. No soap. Put it back on the flame until it’s dry, then wipe on a thin film of oil. It takes ten seconds and is how every hawker stall does it.

Fixing common problems

• Sticky or tacky: too much oil or not enough heat. Put it back on high until the sticky layer smokes off.
• Rust spots: scrub them off with steel wool and a little water, dry it on the heat, then season again with a few thin coats.
• Patchy brown and black: normal. A wok gets darker and more even the more you cook in it.
• Food sticking: heat the wok until it just starts to smoke before the oil goes in. Hot wok, cold oil.

Or let us do the cooking

If you’d rather taste wok hei than chase it, our Penang char kway teow comes off a very well-seasoned wok every day. Wok Wok is at 11 Mott Street (at Worth St), Chinatown, down a flight of stairs. Open daily: Sun–Wed 11am–9:30pm, Thu–Sat 11am–10pm. Order direct or see the full menu.

Questions people ask

How do you season a new carbon steel wok?

Scrub off the factory coating with hot soapy water, dry it on the burner, heat it until the metal changes color, then wipe on a very thin layer of high-smoke-point oil and heat until it smokes. Repeat the oil-and-heat step three or four times.

What oil is best for seasoning a wok?

A neutral oil with a high smoke point, such as peanut, canola or vegetable oil. Use a very thin layer. Too much oil turns sticky instead of hardening.

Can I use soap on a seasoned wok?

Only once, to remove the factory coating on a new wok. After that, clean it with hot water and a bamboo brush, dry it on the heat, and wipe on a thin film of oil.

Why is my wok sticky after seasoning?

There was too much oil, or it was not heated long enough. Put the wok back on high heat until the sticky layer smokes off and darkens, and use thinner coats next time.

How do I fix a rusty wok?

Scrub the rust off with steel wool and a little water, rinse, dry it on the burner, then season it again with a few thin coats of oil.

Where can I eat wok-fried Malaysian food in NYC?

At Wok Wok, 11 Mott Street (at Worth St) in Chinatown, Manhattan, downstairs below street level. Open daily: Sun–Wed 11am–9:30pm, Thu–Sat 11am–10pm.